The upper deck of the ship is great for viewing and for walking.
I'm just back from a fabulous 12-day Eastern European river cruise with Grand Circle Cruise Lines that began in Bucharest and the Black Sea and ended in Budapest, Hungary.
Four countries, three empires, multiple attempts at independent states… the Balkans and Romania through which we traveled on the Danube river faced constant change in terms of borders and those in power.
In the broadest of terms there was:
- the arrival of the Romans and the establishment of Eastern Orthodox Christianity
- the colonization by the Ottomans and the introduction of Islam
- tensions between the Ottomans and the Austro-Hungarian empires
- the rise of nationalism within the individual Balkan states
- different states forming alliances on different sides during both world wars
- the rise of Tito and the formation of Yugoslavia
- the Romanian Revolution of 1989
- and, of course, the Balkan Wars of the 1990s and the dissolution of Yugoslavia.
But beyond its complicated and often violent past the region is also incredibly beautiful. The trip was an education as well as a vacation and a very social excursion. I met many interesting people who were a pleasure to share the trip with. I have a number of stories to tell but I will start with an overview of the trip itinerary in photos.
Bucharest, Romania
We flew into Bucharest where everyone met for dinner on the first night. The following morning, the first full day of the trip, we spent in Bucharest with a local guide. At every stop we had our program director with us and a local guide. In the afternoon we traveled to Constanta on the Black Sea to board the ship.
We started in Bucharest, Romania where I was surprised to learn of the 19th century French influence on architecture.
This is Egmond whom we met in Revolution Square in Bucharest. He told us about participating in the Romanian rebellion in that very square.
The Palace of the Parliament which is the world's largest civilian building with an administrative function according to Wikipedia. It was initiated by the hated communist leader Nicolae Ceausescu.
Constanta, Romania
Constanta is the oldest, continuously inhabited city in Romania. Its economic survival is based on being a port on the Black Sea.
The Archeology Museum in Constanta.
Old and new stand together.
The Eastern Orthodox Church of Saint Peter and Saint Paul in Constanta.
Ruse, Bulgaria
This is a small city on the Danube. No bus necessary on this stop as was the case in most ports. It was just a short walk into the city.
The theater in Ruse was designed by architects from Vienna.
Saint Trinity Church in Ruse, Bulgaria was built in 1632 when the Ottomans controlled the region. The church was built below ground (hence the steps down into the church) so that Christians could worship out of sight.
In front of Ruse Opera House
Vidin, Bulgaria
Vidin is much smaller than Ruse and a good example of a small town on the Danube.
A beautiful, small orthodox chapel beside Orthodox administrative building.
Sandals in the mosque where we met with the Imam who has a small congregation of about 30 families. About 12% of the Bulgarian population is Muslim. He spoke to us and answered our questions through a translator.
The Turkish bath in Ruse is a remnant of the Ottoman Empire's presence in the area.
Sailing Day to Belgrade
From Ruse we had a day sailing to Belgrade as we went through the locks called the Iron Gates.
We started the day with a discussion led by our program directors who were from (going from left to right) Croatia (Dom), Serbia (Bojana), and Romania (Monika). They answered our questions about what life was like under communism. Their outfits indicate that they had been Young Pioneers.
Approaching the dam and locks on the Danube called the Iron Gates locks.
Past the locks is a beautiful gorge. This is the Monastery Mraconia.
Belgrade, Serbia
We had been divided into three groups, each with one program director. Our's was Bojana who is from Belgrade.
Our first stop was at Tito's tomb where we met this man who spoke to us about life under Josip Broz Tito, the president of Yugoslavia.
We met with Bojana's family in Belgrade.
The pedestrian mall in Belgrade.
Novi Sad, Serbia
Park in Novi Sad
We met this man on the street who was curious about our group. Another impromptu meeting with a local. Our local guide on the right is Bojana's sister.
This church has a cross over the muslim crescent indicating Christianity taking over from islam in the area.
Vukovar and Osijek, Croatia
On this day we visited two small cities, a school which receives support from the Grand Circle Foundation and a local's home for lunch. Then we took the bus across the border of Hungary and boarded the boat in Mohacs.
Vukovar is a town that was severely damaged during the Balkan Wars.
The children in the school put on a concert for us which included this traditional dance.
Bullet damage is evidence of the Croatian War of Independence.
Budapest, Hungary
The night after Croatia we sailed to Budapest where we spent two days before flying home.
A view of the Hungarian Parliament
This market, open on Sundays, is in one of the “ruin pubs” on Kazinczy Street. I love the exuberance of the woman talking on the right and the response of the woman passing by on the left.
Shoes on the Danube, a memorial to the jews killed during the Holocaust.
As you can see from just this small sample of photos from my trip, it was a rich and educational experience. I have lots to tell you.
Stay tuned.
My thanks to Grand Circle Cruise Lines for supporting this trip. As always, the opinions are my own and editorial control of the stories is managed solely by Solo Traveler.